For our 32nd Wedding Anniversary, Marita and I decided to have traditional French bistro fare. No nouvelle cuisine, just good old-fashioned, heavy-on- the butter-and-cream French food.
We couldn’t have picked a better place than Benoit, Alain Ducasse’s bistro in Manhattan.
We had an excellent French meal. Marita started with a plate of three appetizers: sardine escabeche, veal tongue, and crispy pied de cochon – at $12, easily the best bargain in the house. I had an ultra-rich cheese souffle (after we had a couple of gougere cheese puffs, which were the lightest part of the entire meal).
For my main course, I had filet de rouget (red mullet), that wonderful Mediterranean fish that I last tried in Cannes. It was simply prepared with tomatoes and carrots, with crispy skin on the outside and tender flesh inside.
Marita’s main course was Quenelle de brochet Nantua, the classic dish made of mashed pike fish and bechamel and shrimp or crayfish butter. I was expecting small boat-shaped quenelles but instead got a single, creme-brulee sized mound of quenelle. It was very rich and luxurious, and yes, very heavy. I nearly ordered another glass of Sancerre to help me finish it off.
Dessert was poached cherries and pistachio ice cream – very good and also very heavy.


